BARONG TAGALOG
There’s really something about the Barong Tagalog that appeals to unassuming, low-key personalities with a penchant for subtle elegance. Needless to say, the Barong Tagalog not only boasts of a rich, ancient craft. It speaks volumes of a heritage that spanned decades of multi-cultural influences and raw patriotism. This is probably why it is naturally worn with pride and dignity. For whenever you don a barong tagalog, you are not just carrying a style, you are wearing a legacy.Here are snippets of little known facts about the Barong Tagalog…how it has come to be the Philippine National Costume and how it evolved from the simple Baro to the elaborate handicraft that it is now:
Before the Spaniards’ discovery of Philippines, the Tagalogs of Luzon wore baro – a sleeveless doublet of rough cotton extending slightly below the waist. It is collarless and opens in the front. It is worn with a piece of cotton cloth covering the men’s loins and extending to mid thigh.
During the 18th century, the handkerchief - usually made of colored silk and inspired with European cravat - was introduced as an accessory to the baro. And while it was a more popular belief that barongs were worn loose and not tucked in because it looked better, the real reason was to show off the hand woven embroidery and sheer fabric for everyone to admire.
The Spaniards introduced the dressy standing collar shirt to the baro and allowed only the Ilustrados – the rich and landed Filipino families- to wear them with shoes and hats. However, they were not allowed to tuck in their baro under their waistbands nor were they allowed to have any pockets. It was meant to remind them that they remain an Indio regardless of the wealth and power they attain. It was clearly intended to discriminate the natives from the Spanish rulers. It was also believed that transparent, sheer fabric were used for the Barong Tagalog mainly to discourage the Indios from hiding any weapons in their shirts.
Hand-woven embroidery on the chest of the baro was a European influence in the 19th century. Later on, the collar was modified to become ruffled and the baro started to be worn tucked under a European topcoat mostly by mestizos or Spanish Filipinos. The ordinary Filipino still wore their baro loose and over trousers. They also started wearing putong on the head and a kerchief over the shoulders. A high black hat may sometimes be worn on special occasions.
From the mid 19th century, the baro were being worn closed-neck and without the cravat. In its place, they had the collar tailored into a narrow black cravat with the buttons on the cuffs removed. Although they succumb to the restrictions on wearing the barong Tagalog, the Ilustrados started expressing subtle rebellious emotions through elaborate embroidery designs on their Barong Tagalog.
Different Barong Tagalog styles emerged after the Filipino Nationalists gained independence. The designs were more detailed and the collars and cuffs were ruffled. This type of Barong tagalog was popular until the 1920s.
The use of the barong Tagalog to express individual style began to be popular and it took several shapes from varied interpretations. The Mestizos wore their Barong tagalog with imported black leather shoes and a bowler hat. The Ilustrados wore their rengue abaca-made barong with plain collar and half-open chest and pleated back design. It was worn over a Chinese collarless shirt called camisa de chino for formal functions. The ordinary men or the Indios, however, continued to wear festive colored camisa de chinos over loose pants and pointed slippers. The loose pants doubled as working pants as it could be easily folded for farm work.
The popularly known Commonwealth Barong tagalog designed with the Commonwealth and American flag, was worn by President Manuel L. Quezon during his November 15, 1935 inauguration. However, President Quezon was seen more often wearing coats, shirts, and vests, in most social functions and did not really push to promote the barong Tagalog.
Recovering from the disaster brought about by World War II, the Filipinos tried to rebuild their political independence and to create an identity as a nation. They started modifying the Barong tagalog by adding an inner pocket on the left side and making the length shorter. They also began doing colorful Barong tagalog designs depicting Philippine scenes and games to instill patriotism.
In the 1950’s, flower embroidery designs in circles and diamond squares with dainty flowers in between began appearing in most Barong Tagalogs.
During the American era, Filipinos began wearing more of the American dresses and less of the Barong Tagalog. It was only during President Ramon Magsaysay’s time from 1955-1957 did the barong tagalog's popularity re-surfaced as the president himself chose to wear them during his inauguration and in all other social functions, thereafter.
From 1961-1964, during President Diosdado Macapagal’s term, the Barong Tagalog with all-over embroidery became a staple men’s wear on formal affairs.
In 1975, President Ferdinand E. Marcos proclaimed the Barong Tagalog as the National Attire and announced June 5-11 as Barong Tagalog week. Being a vocal advocate of the Barong Tagalog, he would showcase his collection of barong from the time he was a congressman, up to his popular 1949 Barong Tagalog which depicted in its design the spirit of the countryside and the common Filipino. The all-over embroidery designed Barong Tagalog became synonymous with the Marcos fashion style.
During the 1990’s, it was President Fidel V. Ramos who somewhat injected an informal twist to the Barong Tagalog by wearing them with folded long sleeves. Later on, former President Joseph Estrada would follow suit and be oftentimes seen with folded long sleeved Barong Tagalog. But to their credit, the two presidents wore finely embroidered Barong Tagalog with the required elegance during formal occasions.
The barong Tagalog further evolved and a new trend depicting the baro as a semi-formal wear with short sleeves began to be popular in the last 10 years. With the use of cotton, ramie, or chiffonile, the birth of the new era “Polo Barong” gave way to the unofficial work attire of the working Filipino.
Several other modifications on the Barong Tagalog were seen through the years. As a result of the different cultural influences that were rubbed on to us by the Chinese, the Europeans, the Indians, and the Americans, we now have a variety of Barong Tagalog designs to choose from. The collars may come in Chinese, Mandarin, Nehru, or Traditional style. The cuffs may be French, one-button or convertible. The design may be floral, geometric, or a combination of both. But the old-world charm that comes in every Barong Tagalog remains the same. Its elegance in all its simplicity is enchanting and mysterious in its subtleness. Most will say that you need a certain attitude to wear your Barong Tagalog well. I think that attitude would have to be pride and love for country.
HOW PINA FABRIC IS MADE
Ever wondered what makes the pina fabric so expensive? Here’s an eye-opener on how much tedious work comes with every meter of this elegant craft.
The Spanish Red or Native Philippine Red, the kind that has leaves spanning an average of 2 meters in length, takes about one and a half years to mature. As soon as the fruit is just about ripe, the leaves are likewise ready for harvesting.
The leaves are snapped off the plant with a sharp tug on the tip and the thorny edges are pulled off.
During extraction, which could be as long as three days, the workers squat on a long board where the leaves are placed. The leaves are then scraped using a broken china plate. (Some suggest the use of antique porcelain to be the best) This is done by folding over a few inches of the leaf base and striking it with the heel of the hands to reveal the first set of fibres called bastos or coarse fibres. These are extracted and set aside.
The leaf is then scraped once more with a coconut shell to bring out a finer fibre called the linawan. This, too, is extracted and set aside.
An average pineapple leaf could produce 75% of the coarse or Bastos fibre and 25% of the finer linawan fibre.
Bastos was used for the cascading, curly hair of images and saints displayed in Philippine churches, and some are used for paper and twine making. The rest of the waste is used as feeds for pigs.
When the extractors come to scrape a quantity of about 1,000 leaves, the bundles of fibres are washed, usually at a nearby stream. It is scraped again gently with the use of a seashell to remove remaining unwanted impurities making the strands whiter in appearance.
The strands are then partially sun-dried on the grass and beaten with a bamboo stick to separate the fibres.
It is then hung on a line to dry, combed and tied upside-down to a slim bamboo pole for knotting.
The ends are cut off with a sharp piece of bamboo and the threads are coiled around a clay pot. The pot is placed with sand to prevent tangles. The fibres are then taken to traders for weighing.
A loom made of coco lumber with bamboo foot treadles are used to weave the fabric. The thread is coiled on cylindrical frames and the thread for weft is wound on bobbins made out of small pieces of bamboo.
The average production of a weaver is about half a meter/day. The process is painstakingly slow and broken threads need constant knotting.
After weaving, the off-white colored cloth with a rather smoky smell is washed with rice water or citrus juice.
The cloth is then sent out for embroidery.
To sum up, the whole process from leaf plucking to the finished woven cloth, would take about four months of continuous work to produce only about 20 meters of the precious fabric. That’s why several attempts have been made to develop a machine that would do the work but the thread being so fine and prone to breaking made this impossible
